UKC

Does anyone know if anyone has ever climbed Mount Kailash?

Are there any other 'holy' mountains (asia specifically) that havent been climbed/you arent allowed to climb on. I know machhupachare was 'never' summitted, and ?Kanchenjunga you're not sposed to go right to the top (though some have).

From summit post on Machhupachare
'It is well-known and accepted within certain climbing circles that Bill Denz - an exceptionally strong NZ climber - illegally climbed Machhapuchare in the early 80s. Denz had soloed many extremely difficult routes in NZ, Alaska, Patagonia and the Himalaya, so although his cultural sensitivity might be questionable, his ability to do such a climb is not. Unfortunately he was killled in an avalanche on Makalu in 1983, so we may never know all the facts for sure. He also made an illegal approach to Menlungtse around the same time, but did not actually climb it, as far as anyone knows. It was finally climbed by Slovenians in 1991.[ Menlungtse that is]'

Not that I have any intention of wanting to, nor probably the money/ability!
Chiz

In reply to chiz: To the best of my knowledge the highest point in Bhutan, and may others, has yet to be touched. You'll get the name on peakware.com (about 7/6000m)

In reply to chiz:

I wrote that piece that you quote on SP, about Denz on Machupuchare. I have never heard of anyone climbing Kailash.

Kawa Karpo (Meilixueshan) up in NW Yunnan on the Tibet border is off-limits. I went there in 2002, knowing this, but going for the peak next to it, unauthorised, but the villagers would not let us go above the village, saying they would be ´punished´by the monks over in Minyong village, where the glacier is. We left and went elsewhere. This is written up in the 2003 AAJ.

The highest peak in Bhutan is Gangkar Punzum. It is the highest unclimbed mountain in the world and has been for some years. Many online sources cite Kula Kangri as Bhutan´s highest, but in fact it is now considered to be wholly within China (Tibet) by about 20km. I attempted it (officially this time) in April/May this year. Photos on Summitpost.org

Just last month some Brits got turned back from a mountain in Sichuan as the monks protested, after a severe storm hit the village soon after the climbers arrival. They changed to another peak.

D

In reply to chiz: Isn't Khumbi Yul La above Khunde and Khumjung in the Khumbu a 'holy' mountain for the Sherpas? I would reckon it has had a fair few ascents though.

In reply to Damo:
Most prominent mountains in the Himalaya seem to be sacred to someone, Kailash is sacred to Hindu, Jain, Buddhist and Bon Po. Kailash is also a stunning looking mountain. Interesting why some peaks are off limits and some aren't, partly money I guess leads to permits being granted, but interesting that angry locals can still scupper plans!

I imagine Bhutan has more major unclimbed peaks as it was shut for so long. probbaly some good stuff in Wakhan Corridor as well, but a bit more dodgy!

Is there any evidence for the claim by Denz on Fishtail? Or did he just come back after a few days with a big smile? From what I know of Robert's attempt the last stretch was pretty nasty, and they were knackered, but that was in the 50's. I'd be interested in any other claimed ascents of it, and what people's attitude to climbing off-limits mountains are (rather than just not buying a permit, as we all do that)
chiz

just found this about a permit granted on Kailash for some spanish climbers

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/docs/enews_2001_May.pdf

but later revoked:-
International support for the Tibetan people and the sanctity of Mount Kailash has aided its preservation. In 2001, a team of Spanish mountaineers requested permission from China to climb the mountain. Following tremendous international protest, the team withdrew its permit request, and when India raised the issue with the Chinese government, Beijing asserted that it would not permit climbing activities at Kailash.

apparently Messner (who had been asked to climb it years before by the chinese govt, and refused) said it was playing into the hands of the chinese to climb it, presumably as the chinese use the presence of foreign visitors and climbers to add credibility to their occupation, and climbing Kailash would be an insult to the buddhists (and Hindu's). The spanish team apparently claimed the ascent was a crusade against global environmental degradation! All them prayer flags around the base are a real eyesore!